Recipe: Papet Vaudois

A Swiss dish from the canton of Vaud, Papet Vaudois is made with Saucisse aux choux (cabbage sausage). You serve it on a bed of leeks and potatoes. Seasoned with salt and pepper, this smoked sausage may also contain garlic, coriander, nutmeg, mace, cloves and anise. Papet (also papette) is an old term from the local French dialect that refers to something like a thick, floury porridge. This beloved dish is a classic Swiss comfort food in Vaud.

According to a popular Swiss legend, Saucisse aux choux dates back to 879 when a German emperor visited the town of Orbe (Vaud). Without enough meat to serve their distinguished guest, the locals added some cabbage to the sausage. According to Patrimoine Culinaire Suisse, however, this sausage did not become widespread until the 19th century. Today, Saucisse aux choux is still popular in Switzerland, having earned a protected status (Indication géographique protégée, IGP)—in 2004.

The season for serving Saucisse aux choux extends from about mid-September to April. Within this period, you will find two special events that celebrate this humble sausage. The first takes place in Orbe. A relatively new festival, the Fête de la saucisse aux choux is held annually during the last weekend in September. Months later, and at various locations, you can enjoy a plate of Papet Vaudois on January 24 on the Journée du Papet. The event coincides with the celebration of Vaud’s independence. With its colors of red, white and green, Papet Vaudois matches the cantonal flag.

Tips for making Papet Vaudois

In Vaud, you’ll find many variations on this traditional dish! Here are some tips to help get you started:

• Together or separately: Some people cook the cabbage sausage with the potato and leek mixture, but I prefer to cook the sausage separately. The sausage is quite salty and has a strong, almost vinegary flavor, which I find can dominate the dish when the meat is cooked with the vegetables.
• Mashing the papet: After the potatoes and leeks have cooked and just before serving, some people prefer to slightly mash this mixture, giving it a softer texture.
• The casing: You don’t eat the natural beef casing of the Saucisse aux choux. Instead, you slice through the casing and scrape out the loose cabbage and meat filling.

Papet Vaudois

Serves: 2

INGREDIENTS

1 Saucisse aux choux IGP (cabbage sausage)
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
50 g (1/3 cup) onion, finely chopped
400 g (about 4 1/2 cups) leeks, halved and chopped into 1/2-inch pieces
200 g (about 2 cups) waxy potatoes, chopped
1/4 teaspoon salt
240 ml (1 cup) dry white wine (e.g., Chasselas or Sauvignon Blanc)
60 ml (1/4 cup) light cream
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
a small handful of fresh parsley, finely chopped

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Add the Saucisse aux choux to a pot. Fill the pot with some water, leaving half of the sausage exposed. Follow the cooking directions included with the sausage, but generally, these sausages cook low and slow (about 40 minutes at 75° C / 170° F).
   
   
2. After the sausage has cooked for about 15 minutes, start cooking the leek and potato mixture. Melt the butter in a medium frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for about 5 minutes until it becomes translucent. Then add the leeks and continue cooking for several more minutes until they soften. Add the potatoes, salt and white wine to the pan. Bring the mixture to a boil and then let it cook over medium-high heat for about 20 minutes until the potatoes are tender.
   
   
3. Stir the cream and fresh parsley into the potato and leek mixture until evenly distributed. Season with freshly ground black pepper. When the sausage is done cooking, serve it on a bed of the potato and leek mixture.

Question: How do you make Papet Vaudois? I would love to hear your tips and tricks for this traditional Swiss dish. Please leave a comment below or send me an email!

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