Five years ago on my birthday, I traveled to Baar in the canton of Zug in search of a famous cake. You might assume I went there for a slice of the beloved Zuger Kirschtorte, a delicately layered, kirsch-soaked delight. Instead, I was looking for the Baarer Räbentorte (turnip cake), which has a celebrity connection. After years of reading about this cake, I had to try it myself and see if it lived up to my expectations.
The Räbentorte began as the creation of Isidor Stierli, at the Falken bakery in the 1930s. He came to Baar after graduating from a confectionary school in Cologne, Germany. His three-layer cake supposedly took inspiration from three geographic areas. The bottom layer is like a large Mandelmakronen (almond macaroon) biscuit, made with egg whites and ground almonds, representing Brussels. The middle layer, a rich buttercream frosting, was supposedly influenced by Paris. The top layer, an almond sponge cake, pays homage to the Sicilian capital city of Palermo.
Even though this cake’s name would make you think it contains turnips, it absolutely does not! You’ll certainly notice, however, the Räbentorte has a light green marzipan decoration on top. This stylized version of a turnip leaf recognizes one of Baar’s culinary traditions.
Turnips have a historical connection to the town of Baar, as they used to be a staple food in this area. During the winter months, the townspeople would prepare these root vegetables in many forms, especially when potatoes were scarce. These include dishes like turnip purée, sliced turnips with pork and even turnip drinks, such as cider and schnapps. This reputation as an epicenter for turnips led to the men from Baar earning the nickname of “Räbe-Manne” (turnip man). The town eventually embraced this image, with its annual carnival celebration, Räbefasnacht, which started in 1947. Every November, children carve turnips to create illuminated lanterns. They carry them through the streets during an evening procession known as the Räbeliechtliumzug.
In the 1970s, Mr. Stierli’s son, Xavier Stierli, took over his father’s bakery and continued making the Räbentorte. It was during this time, when actress Sophia Loren, who has lived in Switzerland since the 1980s, discovered this cake. In fact, the story goes that her housekeeper who came from Baar introduced it to her. Ms. Loren would even sometimes personally call the bakery to place an order.
When the Stierli family closed their bakery, the production of the Räbentorte stopped, and its future was in jeopardy. Thankfully, Jürg and Andi Nussbaumer, fourth generation bakers, have taken on the tradition of producing this special cake. The Nussbaumer bakery at Neugasse 27 in Baar is where I found my Räbentorte, befitting of a world-famous Italian actress!
Enjoying this elegant cake, on a sunny hillside overlooking Baar, was truly the perfect way to celebrate my birthday that year.
Where to find the Baarer Räbentorte: Backstube Nussbaumer – multiple locations
References:
- “Baarer Räbentorte,” Patrimoine Culinaire Suisse
- “Baarer Räbentorte,” Backstube Nussbaumer
- “Geschichte: Räbefasnacht Baar,” Fasnachtsgesellschaft Baar